SAILING FOR MAURITIUS: THE DIARY OF AMERICAN CONSUL GEORGE FAIRFIELD
[Mauritius--American Diplomacy]. Fairfield, George H. ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPT DIARY OF GEORGE H. FAIRFIELD, U. S. CONSUL TO MAURITIUS, RECORDING THE JOURNEY
TO HIS POST. [At sea and port, January 26-May 14, 1856].
As early as 1786, the first American ships began to ply the Indian Ocean, filling the trading gap caused by British and French warships preying on each other’s vessels. Among the friendliest locations for Americans was Port Louie on the French-controlled island of Île-de-France, known today by its colonial Dutch name, Mauritius. Mauritius was largely unoccupied before the modern colonial era, during which period it became the most populous of the Mascarene Islands, a small
archipelago about 600 nautical miles east of Madagascar. In 1794, George Washington signed the commission of the first U. S. Consul to Mauritius, William McCarty. McCarty’s primary duty was to safeguard the interests of U. S. whaling and cargo ships stopping at Port Louie, a role that would change little in the decades that followed, even as control of Île-de-France shifted in 1810 from France to Britain, which restored the name Mauritius. By the time that George H. Fairfield was
appointed U. S. Consul in 1855, the island had become one of the most important sugar producing colonies in the British Empire.
This is the original shipboard diary that Fairfield kept during the journey from Boston to the Mascarenes after assuming his consular role. With clear and detailed entries spanning the five-month voyage--January 26 to May 14, 1856--it is one of the few surviving accounts written by a 19th-century U. S. diplomat en route to his post.
George Fairfield was born at Lawrence, Massachusetts, in 1832. The 1850 U. S. Census lists him as a clerk; his father was a schoolmaster. Four years later, Fairfield was residing in Cape Town, South Africa, where the South African Commercial Advertiser of February 4, 1854, reports that he was married in Trinity Church to Miss Eliza Dickenson, second daughter of a captain in the service of the East India Company. We do not know what work took Fairfield to Africa, but it was likely some form of business interest, as one year into his post at Port Louis he was accused
(and apparently cleared) of violating the 5th section of the consular act by engaging in commercial activity. Fairfield’s appointment lasted until 1861, when he was replaced by Thomas Shankland of New York. On their return to the United States in November 1862, the Fairfields and their three young daughters were aboard the East India trader Thomas B. Wales when it was overtaken on its run from Calcutta to Boston by the Confederate screw sloop-of-war Alabama. They soon became great favorites of the Alabama’s officers, who gave up their staterooms to the former consul and his family. After the war, when its legendary pilot, Captain Raphael Semmes, was facing a trial for cruelty to prisoners, Fairfield wrote a letter on his behalf. Fairfield’s diary fills 47 pages and contains about 5500 words, starting with their departure from Boston and continuing through their arrival at St. Denis, the capital of Mauritius’s southern neighbor, Réunion.
Saturday, January 26th, 1856
The Bark Bounding Billow left Boston for Cape Town C. G. H. having for Capt. G. S. Small—mate F. Howes 2d mate—Nickerson—Passengers—G. S. Holmes & wife of Cape Town G. H. Fairfield U. S. Consul for Mauritius wife and child & servant. 6 men and a steward: in all 16 persons. The Bark is a new vessel 357 tons register. clipper. built. Left the end of Commercial wharf at 3’o clk P.M. with a fresh breeze from the Westward—passed Cape Cod and on the following morning no land in sight...Proceeded with plenty of wind and a very rough sea. The bark being very sharp was completely swept at times by the sea—the weather cold and cabin wet
comfort was a quality not to be found…
February 3
Never did I know of such a fine run off the coast and in the past seven days we have done well. We appear to have a good crew—Capt S. is from Chatham a man of 35 years of age and partaking of some of the peculiarities of that class of men who have never possessed the advantages of early education or a refined taste—his standard of generosity and of the obliging ways of gentlemanly courtesy is low—very low indeed—his heart seems to have frozen up or to have been so cased in by the experience of the selfishness of life that the genial rays of what may have been a noble nature cannot pierce though the crust of acquired selfish narrow mindedness.
But I anticipate a pleasant time. Capt. Holmes (a former acquaintance in Cape Town) a christian man and gentlemanly in demeanor with his wife will fill up the void...On leaving home parents at this time I feel more than ordinarily sad—I leave parents advanced in age & one of them in sickness and in adversity for an absense so indefinite in duration & uncertain in issue— they feel a new pang in that they now part from their grandchild the little Emma the pet of their age in whom the whole affection of their hearts seems centered…
February 4
Capt. H. is deep in Allison’s Europe and oblivious of the events in the present century is communing with Napoleon of Corsica and the events of his day. Napoleon’s greatness is not lessened by time—future generations will give him increased homage and long after England will have ceased to be more than a secondary power the slight glimpse of mankind will get of the majesty of France under Bonaparte will rise transcendent over the little meanesses of England at
the same era. National greatness is the working of the designs of the Almighty—and as each nation & generation fill the place & perform the part allotted them in the drama of time so they pass off the stage and are no more prominent.
February 5
This is the pleasant period of sea life—dry docks—warm weather and smooth sea the sick ones are all well and doing for themselves—the cabin well ventilated and a feeling of content arising from being comfortably settled and all baggage satisfactory arranged....wonderfully does the skill of man manifest itself in pursuing his straight path along the pathless deep.
February 6
Fine weather with light baffling winds from the Southward & Westward. At noon spoke the British Bark Majestic of Yarmouth N. S. from Newport for Savannah whom we desired to report us. We glide along finely with the light air—leaving hardly a ripple to mark our path. The sky about looks like a change of wind and the swell heaves from the Eastward. It seems good today to see another ship and to hear an english voice hail us across the water—the meeting of two little worlds for an instant and in a few moments separated again we are once more alone.
February 12
the beautiful sky of the trade winds lends its soothing influence and with its fleecy clouds presents a most beautiful scene to the eye of an admirer of nature—the flying fish are skimming about and this morning we had quite a mess for breakfast they having flown aboard during the night....Reading history we divert our attention from the present monotony and learn wherein nations sinned and fell and wherein an overruling providence has ordered all for the wisest ends using the minds and oftentimes the failings of rulers to work out the final consummation of its
purposes—What the destiny of our own beloved Republic is to be is a matter of anxious thought—Our National sins are such as to leave no room for surprise at a summary punishment.
February 15
Light airs from the Northward almost a dead calm—the smooth surface of the water is hardly broken by a ripple—glassy smooth—the heavy banks of clouds settle down around the horizon assuming a variety of fanciful shapes while high up in the sky the sun looks pale as polished silver—the air is hot and one seems borne down by the sultry scorching heat. Such scenes are wild and majestic in the extreme and are to be found nowhere but here near the Equator—the bark scarcely moves through the water and the fish—bonita & the Porpoise seem to laugh in scorn at our helplessness as they shoot about us playfully sporting in their native element This is what is called the Doldrums—
February 21
Strong trade winds with heavy sea....The Bark pitching severely she is so sharp that she makes clean work never stopping till her bow is under—Amidst all our troubles little Emma has had for several days a very badly inflamed eye swollen enormously and causing great pain—It is agonizing to hear & see her in her sufferings
Sunday, February 24
This morning at six o’clk made the Island of Trinidad [Ilha da Trindade in the South Atlantic Ocean] on the weather bow and noon were abreast of it about 6 miles distant the huge irregular form of this rock is picturesque in the extreme—rising abruptly from the water and ascending in high sharp pinnacles with a huge steeple like rock at each extremity elevating their heads perpendicularly to the heights of 1700 feet it would seem that nature must have produced a tremendous convulsion to have heaped up such monstrosities…
February 26
The trades have ceased and we have this day a light breeze from the N. E. with an unusually smooth sea. The nights are now extremely lovely—the heavens are literally blazing with stars— the Southern Cross has supplanted the North Star that star of my affections and the Magellan Clouds are conspicuous. We are now dependent upon the chances of variable winds to see us toward our port and await anxiously the rising of a breeze.
Saturday, March 1
It affords no satisfaction to record a calm—the endurance of its horrors is enough without recording the events. Since the last entry we have had calm weather—no wind—a sun almost vertical pouring down heat the glassy surface of the ocean reflecting back the heat & glare rendering our suffering extreme. Patience almost exhausted hope on the decline...But there is an end to all things—this morning ushered in a light breeze from the Eastward and we are again in motion....Anything but a calm....Our passage is lengthened out and we can have no opportunity
to boast of an unusually short passage.
March 4
Calm weather has again held us back on our course Yesterday and day before gave us no wind. The bark has been painted outside and is much improved thereby—nothing occurs to break the monotony of our life....Emma’s eye still continues troublesome and we anxiously look forward to our arrival at the Cape for medical advice.
Sunday, March 9
This day we have a light breeze with a heavy S. W. sea rolling us about. Sunday at sea appears to many of our number a long day. To a conscientious ship master it is often a day of perplexity and anxiety: oftentimes after a week of unfavorable weather Sunday brings a favorable change— he hesitates between inclination and duty—to make sail and crowd along his ship thereby calling his whole company to work & breaking into the day of rest or to regard God and let his ship go on under short sail…
March 10
Albatrosses begin to hover about us and several unsuccessful shots from the Capt. warn them not to approach too near.
March 14
We are now experiencing the result of obstinacy and ignorance in the conduct of our Captain. Although repeatedly told of the local wind & current of the Cape and advised to keep well to the Southward so as not to fall to leeward of his port yet he persisted in his adherence to his own views and harkened not to the voice of experience....The bark did all that could be expected of her but this morning we made the land about St. Helena Bay and Paternoster Point—70 miles to
the Northward of our port and a headwind blowing—now we have to beat about here for an indefinite time waiting for the South Easter to cease & the springing up of a northerly breeze. Had we been where we should have been two days ago we should now have been in Table Bay and have made the shortest voyage ever made to our port…
Wednesday, March 19
After beating about for five days we have at length arrived in Table Bay 53 days out. Yesterday P. M. we got a light wind from the Westward and stood down the coast—at 11 o’clk P.M. tacked off Robbin Island and in the morning found ourselves becalmed under the land...I find all my friends well and receive a hearty welcome from all—Indeed I find myself at home again…
Tuesday, April 1st
After a pleasant stay in Cape Town—a pleasant reunion with friends dear to me by many associations—after a heartfelt farewell full of regret and pain—We this day at noon sail from Table Bay in the French ship Arequipa Capt. Roquette for Mauritius—we start with a S. Westerly wind and beat out of the bay and at night fall come to an anchor off Green Point.
April 2
Find plenty of room and plenty of good fare & kind attention aboard the ship contrasting strongly with things aboard the Bounding Billow. We have an abundance of necessities & luxuries....The Captain does not speak English neither does either of his officers, and as I do not speak French we do not converse much. We carry the American flag at the main—and altogether I get all the honor due me and some to spare.
April 18
From the first time since our departure from Table Bay I can now record a fair wind. Twice we have got to the Eastward of Cape Lagullas [i.e., Cape Agulhas, the southernmost tip of Africa, which divides the Atlantic and Indian oceans] & twice have been driven back by easterly gales. We have been lying to in a gale from due East (true) with a heavy sea for three days have had bulwarks stove & the poop swept—the forward starboard corner of house stove in and skylight &c, &c—misery et misery—three oxen & ten sheep have died—a large portion of our water
casks stove in by weight of forage stowed on top of them—17 days out and no progress— misfortune upon misfortune....But the gale has left us right side up—we have a good breeze from N. N. West....Blow!! good breeze Blow!!! don’t be backward—give us a shove=I pledge a bottle of Champagne to old Neptune & ditto to Boreus (I can’t spell his name) Mother Partington calls him Old Borax) to get their favors. Let my foot feel Mauritius under its sole and I will feel pleased. Where is the man who sang “A life on the Ocean wave”) I should like to go one voyage with him—would like to make him drink salt water.
April 22
On account of our disasters in the gale we have been obliged to put in to Port Elizabeth Algoa Bay...I find the place a new town of fine buildings....the news here from the Mauritius proclaims the cholera sweeping of its 100 per diem. So we must consider our detention as providential.
Sunday, April 27
This morning at 10 o’clock weighed anchor and got under weigh in a light breeze from S. W.
Friday, May 2
This is my birth day anniversary. What a wanderer—the last seven of my birth days have been away from home and no two at the same place—I should love dearly to take a peep into the old homestead to day and meet the loved ones....I am bound for one of the most deadly climates in the world and it seems hardly probable that I shall ever again tread my native shores.
May 7
Since the 2nd inst. we have been favored with light breezes from the Westward and fine weather. The old ship has been jogging on slowly but steadily toward her destination. The Indian Ocean is peaceful & quiet and we hope to get on with no more bad weather.
May 12
Calms have now delayed our progress—no wind has been heard from for several days. The weather is growing decidedly tropical and is especially warm with no wind to temper the heat of the sun who although far off in the northern hemisphere designs to give us a blistering touch of his power....To my utter amazement the Capt. has signified his intention to go into Bourbon (i.e., Réunion) before proceeding to Port Louis. Such a course is by no means to my satisfaction. The voyage has already been sufficiently long and I am heartily fatigued and sick of it. But I can
only protest against it.
Wednesday, May 14
The monotony to day varied by a most painful occurrence....About 9 o’clk A. M. as two of the crew were about descending the after hatch the mate who was standing near seemed to have some words with one of them and without any apparent cause stamped upon his back as he was going down—and then following them down beat and stamped upon them for I should judge one minute & a half. I really expected to see the men killed by this brutal treatment....I hope never again to witness such a scene.
May 15
Made the land this morning about ten o’clock....Cast anchor in St. Denis at 3 1/2 o’clock.
Here the narrative ends. After returning to the United States in 1861, Fairfield settled his family in Camden, New Jersey, where he worked as a merchant, a wool broker, and a real estate investor. He died there in 1914. His diary offers a thoughtful account--at times both harrowing and entertaining--of the long journey to his diplomatic post on the far side of the world.
12mo (18 cm). 47 pp., about 5500 words, all in ink and entirely legible. Gathered signatures, stitched, without wraps. Some soiling and staining to outer leaves, occasional foxing. Overall very good.
Relevant sources: Bowman, Larry. 1996 The United States and Mauritius 1794-1994: A Bicentennial Retrospective. The American Neptune 56(2):145-159; Beck, Robin. Primary Sources; Smith, Walter Burges. 1986. America's Diplomats and Consuls of 1776-1865: A Geographic and Biographic Directory of the Foreign Service from the Declaration of Independence to the End of the Civil War.
Occasional Paper No. 2. Government Printing Office, Washington, D. C.